New Maker’s Mark Wheat Whisky is groundbreaking in many ways

What distillery other than Maker’s Mark does so much cool stuff beyond whiskey making?

Does any other U.S. brand devote a swath of an 1,100-acre campus to the cultivation of estate-grown grain and grazing livestock? What other U.S. brand has a massive Eden-like garden to produce vegetables, herbs, flowers and mushrooms, for heaven’s sake, for its mixology and culinary programs?

Maker’s is home to two unrivaled private barrel selection experiences: one in a man-made “whisky cave,” and another in a luxe tasting room overlooking the lake from which the distillery draws water for production. (In the event of a nuclear war, I hope I’m on the deck overlooking the lake when those missiles launch.)

People call it Whisky Disneyland for good reason. It seems there’s never a blade of grass out of place, a hand-cut stone that looks suspiciously plastic or anything as gauche as whiskey stones in its gift shop. The visitor center alone is an art gallery with rotating exhibits.

It’s specifically that ethos—that “we create the coolest stuff” confidence—which makes the release of its 2025 Star Hill Farm American Wheat Whisky not all that surprising. Why wouldn’t the brand whose operators swore for seven decades they would never create a new mash bill, do exactly that and twice over? (One mash bill contains 100 percent malted wheat, and the second contains 70 percent wheat and 30 percent malted barley.)

And why wouldn’t those same brand operators, who, over those same seven decades proudly proclaimed its commitment to the torturous work of barrel rotation—not rotate barrels for the new wheat whiskey? Those barrels, though, got some cool twists: some with French oak heads, others made only from French oak but with their staves’ insides “grooved” for increased wood influence.

At its simplest, Star Hill Farm Wheat Whisky is an excellent drink, a delicious and complex example of this small but expanding spirits category.

But just as importantly, its creation and release marks Rob Samuel’s most significant impact on the brand founded by his grandfather, T.W. Samuels, and fostered ferociously by his father, Bill Samuel’s, Jr.

As Maker's managing director and eighth generation whisky maker, Rob Samuels knows he’s fortunate to stand on the shoulders of those giants to execute this new venture, one which even transcends actual whiskey making. It all begins with sustainability and dirt-first initiatives centered on regenerative farming. His devotion to this cause includes sharing regenerative farming insights in alliance with Regenified and Understanding Ag, a provider of education and technical support to build healthy farm ecosystems.

According to a news release, “the Maker’s Mark Regenerative Alliance will invite farms, bars and restaurants—starting in New York, Kentucky and greater London—to join its mission: pledging to adopt regenerative practices in sourcing and operations, while promoting its benefits through menu storytelling and consumer engagement.”

That includes the transitioning 1 million acres of conventional farmland to regenerative farmland over the next three years. That’s a lot of good done to a lot of dirt.

Additionally, as a member of the newly founded Estate Whiskey Alliance, Maker’s Star Hill Farm American Wheat Whiskey (let's shorten that to SHFAWW) is the first EWA-certified product. Achieving that designation requires a distillery’s production processes, including milling, cooking, fermentation, distillation, barreling, aging and bottling occur on the estate distillery. It also mandates at least two-thirds of all mash bill grains are grown on estate-owned or controlled land.

Such projects often are personal causes of scions rising through the ranks of their parents’ successful brands, and not all such passion projects succeed. But this one, fully fueled by that Maker’s moxie and Samuels’ commitment to it, seems a fait accompli.

“The inspiration for Star Hill Farm Whisky was to pursue the range of flavor that could be achieved from wheat,” he said. “That extends to varietals, soil health and farming practices. … The proceeds from the sale of Star Hill Farm Whisky will help propel regenerative farming practices.”

Speaking like his grandfather and father, Samuels then tied it back to the actual taste of the product. “Through stewardship of nature, we will push flavor boundaries, and by improving soil health, we ultimately benefit flavor.”

This first SHFAWW release—due out in May and slated to become an annual release—is a blend of both mash bills and their whiskies aged 7 to 8 years, and bottled at 114.7 proof (57.35% ABV).

Dr. Blake Layfield, who recently was made Maker’s master distiller, describes it this way: “The nose captivates with notes of buttery caramel, golden raisins and gingerbread. On the palate, you’ll find a soft, bright mix of honeyed toffee, chocolate-covered cherries, and a hint of apple pie spice. The finish is smooth and inviting, with toasted pecans and soft cinnamon bringing it all together.”

I can’t top that description or even add to it other than to say it’s the richest, most full-bodied wheat whiskey I’ve ever drunk. There have been several terrific entries to the category over the last few years, some of which we’ve reviewed. But this one’s a standout: lush in aroma and texture and fruit-centric like middle-age rye whiskies.

Priced at $100 and set for release in the U.S. and the UK, I think this is a fair buy for the effort put into creating it, the bigger mission behind it, and the result you get.