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Bourbon Whiskey Reviews

Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Wheated Bourbon Review

You may have plenty of craft bourbons on the shelf with a similar story to this one, but how many truly grain-to-glass bottles do you own from the big boys?

Drew Beard

• 3 min read
Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Wheated Bourbon Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

Drew's NOTES

SHARE WITH: Heaven Hill fans, of course, especially fans of their wheated bourbon expressions. Your friend that occasionally brings up "whiskey terroir" at the bottle swaps.

WORTH THE PRICE: $100 is a bit steep for a six-year-old wheated bourbon, but this is more than just that. It's a brand new wheated bourbon. Not just a new label but an entirely new recipe made by one of the most well-respected producers in the business. And whether or not you care about the provenance of the grain, there's considerable time and expense that goes into selecting and growing something unique specifically for this expression.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle. You may have plenty of craft bourbons on the shelf with a similar story to this one, but how many truly grain-to-glass bottles do you own from the big boys? I didn't think so. Uniqueness aside, this also happens to be an impressive high proof wheater that Larceny and Old Fitz lovers will appreciate. And did I mention this is a brand new Heaven Hill recipe??

OVERALL: Steve's upcoming article will have all the details on Heaven Hill's new Grain to Glass series, but the short and sweet version is that these are whiskeys made with unique corn varietals identified in partnership with seed-company Beck's Hybrids and grown locally in Central Kentucky. While most whiskey is made using higher yielding, low-starch corn, Heaven Hill selected a higher starch variety that grows well in its own backyard. The three recipes in the inaugural Grain to Glass Series each use some portion of this corn varietal, Beck's 6158.

That's all to be applauded, and I imagine that we'll see more emphasis on grain provenance from other big bourbon brands in the future. But what I find most exciting about this series (if you couldn't tell already) is that it showcases three entirely new Heaven Hill whiskey recipes. Larceny was already a higher wheat wheater compared to others out there, but this takes it to another level. And you can really taste the difference.

The aroma is rich and doughy with a caramelized sugar sweetness and gentle undertones of pecan pie, maple syrup, and fresh oak. As it opens, a bit of cocktail cherry arrives. The palate is impressively approachable at such a generous proof. Early notes of marmalade on toast and breakfast cereal speak to the the flavoring grain more than the unique corn varietal, although that probably has some impact, as well. This is probably the most grain-forward of the three new expressions, but that's not to say things are gritty. The midpalate offers up a generous, syrupy sweetness highlighted by notes of cherry cordial and strawberry candies before drying into a warm, peppery finish of oak and cherry handpies.

As an aside, I had the chance to taste another, future wheated bourbon Grain to Glass expression (from the barrel, no less) during Heaven Hill's press event. Maybe it was because I was drinking in a Cox's Creek rickhouse or maybe it was because Bernie Lubbers was doing the pouring, but that whiskey was one of the best things I've tasted all year. The future looks bright.

BRAND NOTES

The first edition of Heaven Hill Grain to Glass Kentucky Straight Wheated Bourbon Whiskey aged for six years in rickhouse W3 on the third, fourth and fifth floors. It was bottled without chill filtration at 121 proof. The corn seed varietal chosen for this release was Beck’s 6158.

Tasting Notes

  • Color: Deep auburn
  • Aroma: Primarily walnuts and almonds with notes of whole wheat bread, cedar and oak
  • Taste: Toasted whole wheat bread and molasses with a pleasantly surprising peppery spice
  • Finish: Notes of pepper slowly fade to reveal oak tannins and an echo of sweet molasses

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.